“Times they are a changin’.” – Bob Dylan.

Luckenbach TX 2 Back in Ottawa Ontario waiting for spring to arrive before summer hits… it will be like flicking a switch. We have been a bit lazy in not blogging our drive back north from Texas, it wasn’t without its memorable moments. Like being jolted out of bed at 5 a.m. to sirens screaming and the town P.A. system blaring: “Severe weather warning in effect, take cover immediately”. Yikes!! Talk about freak you out: like “really… for real???”

No time to waste: a flurry of critical action, we never practiced emergencies like this :)

1. Wake Steve, who is usually a very light sleeper… how the heck can you sleep through that racket!

2. Collect jewelry, trinkets and bits and bobs that are essential if you are going to be well and truly homeless (bus-less). A girl has to look her best in any circumstance you know!

3. iPads and wallets,

4. And of course essentials like passports that we spend half our life hiding, half our life trying to find, and the rest of the time forgetting about them… Or traveling on one that is expired or even worse: trying to cross a border on the wrong passport! Guilty on all counts. Now… where did we put them??

Luckenbach TXWe head for Walmart with essentials in hand; ok we can now live through what ever gets thrown at us. Except, what if Pumper was sucked up in some vortex! For sure she would reappear in the future with a wicked witch of the East driving her, a bunch of Munchkins in the back dressed like Hippies, and a man made of tin with a tool bag and cart of VW spares! (Someone should make a movie about this!)

Natchedoches“Tornado Alley”. Incredible when you wander the back roads in these parts and see the poverty… we are all for charitable work helping the less fortunate in developing countries… Guess we need to look in our own back yards at the suffering and impoverished, might be a good place to put some effort! So many people living in the path of ultimate weather “black belt” showdown, and all they have for protection: some ancient wreck mobile home or double wide as they call them in the south!! They stand no chance!

Natchez MuralThese are the people of the south: Their own breed, with hospitality part of their genetic code. We are loved and soaked up, and treasure the warmth and charm. Another town… another McDonald’s. Madison Mississippi we are treated to an incredible display of love and giving: Pumper is swarmed by the morning coffee club / town elders during their regular morning meeting to solve world hunger or whatever other problem one of them brings to the table at the risk of a bunch of wise cracks! One old timer thrusts a tray of fresh baked lemon squares at us, that is a very dangerous thing to do (we politely refuse the entire tray and take a modest helping!)   Another appears with freshly picked asparagus straight from the garden, organic for sure… we could sit there all day and soon enough someone would turn up with lunch!

VicksburgYes, Texas delighted.. Austin was blast. The car show at Fredericksburg (500 cars), great fun and lots of new friends that are now ‘Dreamers’ subscribed to our blog. Being interviewed by Kim in Nacogdoches for an article that later appears on the front page of ‘The Daily Sentinel’. Meeting Marilyn fundraising for a school project in Swaziland: Now this is a lady that could write a gripping book having spent half her life in Africa.  And yup now we might just be thinking of going there for a visit!!! Africa seems to be calling us!

Rolling on to Louisiana and Mississippi, immersed in the civil war memorials and history… Talk about red carpet… Pumper is showered with love and appreciation! Just love the “laid back” groove of these people. And our new monicker’s “Lady Bug and Shot Gun” as dubbed by one of the elders at the coffee club meeting… proposed and passed without hitch right there at McDonalds!

SwampIn Tupelo 2 tornados touched down just 24 hours before we were there with devastating consequences apparent as we drive down the main street the major tornado tracked during its brief mayhem. Cars wrecked and turned over, buildings with the upper floor missing and power lines down everywhere but with an army of repair people and average Joe citizens pitching in to try and return the town to some semblance of what it was.

We tried to hang out far enough south, Tennessee, Kentucky, to stay warm but ‘responsibility’ called… and a promise to dog-sit for daughter Simone in Toronto. Can’t believe how cold it felt for pretty much the whole month of May in Ontario. And on top of that I was again as sick as a dog for close on a month with bouts of chest infection, sinus infection and just feeling exhausted… yet another visit to the hospital. My immune system is so compromised that the slightest ailment turns into a major challenge.

SDR NashvilleThis has led us to rethink our future… and everyone knows how hard it is for us to plan! As much as Pumper is one of the family, it is time to face facts… I am just not up for the hard core travel and living in a tin can any longer. We had a good run for 5 years the last 4 in Pumper. We have seen so much of the world, enjoyed many wonderful experiences, and met so many beautiful people. Now, we are proud owners of a 5thWheel Trailer and pickup truck and plan to do less strenuous travel a little closer to home but still be full-timers. We so appreciate all our friends and dreamers that have followed us around the world on our odyssey and sincerely hope those friendships will last. Thanks to all of you that at times unknowingly have encouraged us to Live Our Dream. Not sure if our new pace will be ‘Blog Worthy’… will have to think about that.

MuralThe obvious next question… “What about Pumper?” we thought about putting her in storage but that just wouldn’t be fair on Pumper, she was made to be on the open road. She is a strong lady with many more miles and years left in her. We also think that it would be unfair not to let someone else ‘live their dream’, so we are selling her in the hope that she brings as much enjoyment to her new owners as she has brought us.

It’s not a sad ending it’s a happy beginning of a new phase in life for us and for Pumper.

Peace and Love… live large, and live your dreams!

Austin, Texas… The Weird

Cupcake“Air Force One” just blew over and LOW… Austin roads are jammed for security… Ugly!  Who knew the “Pres.” Was coming to town, maybe to check out the food trucks and all the super delicious grub that could become a rather nasty addiction. Today’s focus? Hitting the “Vegan” truck of all vegan trucks in the north end of town.

 

 

Austin WeirdIt doesn’t take much time landing in Austin to figure out this is the coolest hub in all of Texas and we are in no hurry to leave… Chilling with our homie’s and fellow travelers getting the scoop on all things they consider “weird” and cool about town: yes you can go topless or ride around town in a thong in this uber conservative state of Texas so who knew! On one slight issue do we not feel we wear the badge of honor… We are for sure not tattooed enough for these parts: amazing art abounds on every body part imaginable!

Pond Pose

Pumper is a massive hit amongst the liberal Austinites. Not sure how often we were approached in the most friendly manner, even if it mostly amounts to being hit up for drugs :-)

 

 

 

What a pair we are: Now vegan… you hear us groan all the time about the GMO’s, pollutants, and junk that is killing us so we have become the purest of the pure boring olde farts that just happen to dress like a couple of young (ish) cool hippie dudes… Unless you catch us in our Pajamas!

Pond Pose2So on most fronts it is great to be north of the border. Aaahh back to the land of excess and pure unadulterated greed… It does pull at our heart strings a wee bit to think how simple life can be and was for the winter months living with so little, yet with hearts full of joyous blessings daily with a kick ass yoga class thrown in for good measure.

 

 

Fairy HousePulling into McDonalds for our morning pit stop & coffee break, nobody questions us parking ourselves for an hour to play on the internet and use the facilities. But this morning we were obviously in a lower income part of town… Sketchy some would call it and many would not have the time of day for the “riffraff” that were there for their free coffee or pancakes, but what a Community! Never have we met such a warm welcoming bunch of people who were delighted to see us. Not only that, they cared so much for each other! These were people ‘being nice’ that had values and warm caring hearts. Wow, a pleasure to see… The simple things in life… while most are happy to tread right over top of others to get to the top of the heap! Lessons in the most basic of humanity… We feel blessed to have these beautiful daily reminders in our lives!

 

So more of what is so great about Austin: The Nudist Beach!!! Like, yes hello and welcome Pumper to “Hippie Hollow State Park”. “Hav’yall was here afore?” “D’yall know it’s ‘Clothing Optional’?” The kiosk lady enquires as if to give fair warning. “We did hear that”.

hippie hollowSteve wastes no time getting into the rhythm of all things naked as we lay lakeside… But sadly a much depleted lake in this drought plagued area, staggering to see on this level. How weird and strange to see “All Sorts” strutting around naked. Well actually it was the old farts with only jogging shoes on that was the most bizarre. Someone needs to tell them one can be unfashionably nude! The totally open toilets… Why have doors? Weird! Just nice to know you are not going to run into your next door neighbor. Ok, go ahead call me a prude! But having had twin Phil introduce us to this beautiful concept in Germany we were more than happy to get with the program but cannot somehow see us laying in the buff in the park on Parliament Hill this this summer! We Canadians tend to be rather conservative on that kind of stuff! ;)

MissionAustin may be eclectic but the hints of community, togetherness, and the ability to get along are evident. We were uber impressed walking along the trails in town: no painted lines or warnings to keep in your own lane!! Nobody yelling “to your right”, “coming through”, “you’re walking in the bike lane” etc… and displaying disapproval at non-conformance to rules! Canada and most other places: Neatly, if not immaculately groomed trails where people mean business!! No, in Austin people seemingly just get along! Bikers, hikers, joggers, roller bladers, moms and dads with strollers, all in their groove with respect for all others… Just being nice! Love these moments where universe and community click, egos are put away, and rules don’t matter! Well done Weirdo’s!

Rust TruckOff to snack on our new fave delight: “Red Quinoa & Flaxseed” Organic Tortilla Chips (GMO free, Gluten free, 0 Trans Fats!!!) with Steve’s scrumptious guacamola delight.. Life is good if only it was not getting so cold: off to spend 2 nights in a hotel of all things…. approaching freezing… way too cold for the likes of us pansies to sleep in the bus! After all this is April in Texas, what goes?

Hotel… OMG what’s that??? That my dears is a put your feet up, put the T.V. on, grab a hot shower and soak up the high life and even cheat and do a spot of laundry! A real bed. Yehhh!! And queen size at that.. Oh the luxury of it all and after all this excitement we are only talking a “Super 8″ motel! Works for us!

 

Peace and love… keeping it weird.

Ignorance Is Bliss

You may have received an e-mail… we were having tech problems bumming internet from some place or another, such is the life of nomads. If you follow us through Facebook this is old news! We are really excited… we had an article published in travelmag.co.uk. This was on the heels of a blog on VW Heritage a UK based classic VW parts and service organization.  Click on the links, hope you enjoy!

Pumper PatzAnd it’s another winter wrap hanging / chilling at some of Mexico’s finest beaches: The drive North from Zihuatanejo to Laredo Texas was pretty uneventful, …uneventful is a good thing, as we were driving through 3 of the most notorious states in Mexico when it comes to drug cartels. In Michoacán the locals call it ‘war’ and civilian vigilantes are active setting up roadblocks, for what purpose we’re not exactly sure, but they are effective at slowing the journey!

vigilantesOf course they do this to the chagrin of both the cartels and the police, which in both cases they simply distrust. It’s really killed the tourist industry in some pretty neat places even Mexican tourists from out of state choose not to visit! We are amazed at shocked looks and horror that we are in these parts and warned for our safety .. If only they knew! Ignorance is bliss …as we are now informed that on our journey South in November we slept on the side of a highway in the centre of drug cartel country. And the people we met were sooo friendly!

S PatzOther than the extortionate ‘cuota’s (road tolls), vigilante roadblocks, the Military roadblock security checks, and the Federal Police roadblock inspections, and the occasional random Municipal Police pullover (usually for a bribe)…. it was plain sailing… Huh, plain sailing you say? I guess this is pretty intimidating, you would be forgiven for thinking this was indeed a war zone. But with all that, we can usually get a smile out of everyone at the road checks when they realize Pumper is our home and we are good for a laugh and joke as they rummage for whatever in the bowels of Pumper… And watch the delight and amazement at our self-contained “Casa” on 4 wheels. On discovery of my stash of medications, several months’ supply of life support… Now that took puppy eyes and serious begging… ‘all legal’ we appeal to good nature!

W BridgeA sight to behold in the City of Uruapan was a whole fleet of Police pick-up trucks encircling the downtown square, all armed with gun turrets and plenty of bullet proof shielding, this was really like something out of a middle-east war torn country. Ironically life goes on all around this mayhem and when we asked the local parking lot attendant why they were there, he simply felt this was ‘all good’ and insured the security of the city. What a way to live.

Steve RiverWe chose not to sleep downtown that night!!! Discretion is the better part of valour! Found ourselves a quiet little parking lot outside the National Park on the edge of town… And crossed everything for good fortune!

 

 

 

 

Dance TroopSpending 4 nights in Patzcuaro sleeping right on the city square, the local police totally unperturbed by our presence, what a wonderful experience in Mexican family life as it tumbles out on the square. We joined the morning walkers and enjoyed a little yoga ….We saw dancers and kids parades, seems like they have a festival for just about every day of the year, and with the obligatory stop at every cake shop for testing purposes! Guess that blew our disciplined diet for a few days!

Hombre ViejoThis is what you could call the idyllic life! And the treat of being invited to “view” a boutique hotel run by friends of a friend, … at $390 a night.. Well, we slept very cozily in pumper that night, just imagining!

But the tummy bug hit with vengeance poor Steve jumping from the bus in the middle of the night to do what one does… Made a change for it not to be me, waiting for my inevitable turn! Not fun at all .. After an exhausting few days of getting sicker and weaker we headed for the border.. Time for some good olde U.S. of A. time.

Now how many borders have we driven across? How many times have we driven from Mexico to the U.S.A.? Even we make mistakes…

W StreetWe did get Pumper repatriated correctly which includes the reimbursement of $200 from Aduana, but… we forgot to get our passports stamped out of Mexico and turn in our immigration cards… Ooops! Could be a problem on our next visit we think.. Minor detail!

Immediately crossing the border into the US you recognize the cultural differences even though the vast majority of Americans anywhere close to the border are of Spanish or Mexican decent… We struggle to make the Spanish / English language cross over.

How refreshing, roads without potholes or topes (Mexican speed bumps), road signs… Nice to get pampered! Oh, and toilets that flush… Toilet paper deposited in the toilet: strange concept! And food choices that makes life much easier! And for sure the reality: Rules and regulations: good, bad, and ugly of it all.

It’s good to be back in the US and look forward to wandering around the state parks and wild western towns in the Texas Hill Country waiting for the 2014 Texas VW Classic car show… It would be terrific, but for the same tummy bug finally caught up to me … now juggling bathroom stops etc.

Rocking and rolling … Life on the road treasured moments, jaw dropping sights and mega experiences. Nothing we would rather be doing! Now, did we just drive past a toilet!

Peace and love … with limitless supply of bathroom tissue!

Paradise…From A to Zihua.

Veg StandDays turn into weeks, weeks into months… we’ve been holed up in Ixtapa / Zihuatanejo for 4 months. Where does time go? Currently suffering a real bad case of ‘Itchy Feet’… gotta get out of here very soon, so looks like we’ll be on the road in a few days. We have the daunting task of fitting our worldly belongings back into the bus… where did all this stuff come from? It sure is easy to ‘spread’ into an apartment. Other than an oil change Pumper is ready for the road. Paint still looking good and she is running nicely, and quieter… now that the muffler has been re-installed the correct way. All but had an argument with the muffler shop when they first installed it but don’t argue well in Española!

 

 

Yoga Pose 2Settling into a groove was too easy… Yoga 3 days a week, walks on the beach, bike rides on our old clunkers we purchased from a rental store. And meeting new folks: short term vacationers, snowbirds, fellow travellers, and the gringo clan that decided to make this place full time home over the years, when Zihua was the tiniest of fishing villages and Ixtapa didn’t exist but for a stretch of sandy beach surrounded by mosquito filled mangroves and swamps. Not much evidence of the mangroves in this pristine fabricated vacation spot with golf courses, timeshares, hotels, and private condos commanding the best views and access to the beach, countless workers manicuring the grass edged roads, painstakingly painting curbs and borders and the base of every coconut tree white. Gallons of water sprayed nightly to keep the grass green and the less social nightly spraying of a pesticide concoction to abate the mosquitoes from turning this back into a swamp.Mayan Dancer

In contrast Zihua, now an oversized fishing village with all the amenities you could wish for and plenty of festivals displaying local culture, art, dance, and music. Fundraisers for local charities mostly subscribed to by Americans and Canadians but over the years gaining local, federal, and international support for the causes. ‘Sailfest’ a fundraiser for local indigenous childrens’ education, included a chance to sail for a day aboard the classic Souljournier, the skipper Willy sailing solo and heading for the South pacific, his next leg; a 30 day stint at sea.

 

 

 

 

Yoga PoseYoga has become a terrific physical and spiritual outlet for us in a studio with a vista of the Pacific just 30 metres down a golden sand beach. Yoga Instructors that have encouraged and contorted the best from us while intensifying our spiritual awareness.

 

 

No Yoga… No Peace!

Know Yoga… Know Peace!

 

IguanaBecoming networked with the art scene in town, has introduced us to an eclectic bunch including renowned artists from the US and Canada, living in everything from luxury condos to bamboo tree houses, all urging us to make this place home. You never know! We have a few trips on our list of things to do and more wander lust to work out of our systems before we make a base in this tropical paradise. One long-time resident that landed here some 40 years ago as a young 20 something treated us to a trek through the forest to a secluded beach where beachcombing for little treasures provided a bounty of photographic delights.

 

surgeonFor a few months this ‘Thing’ was growing quickly on Steve’s chest. Looked a lot like a third nipple and bled like a bugger! Hmmm, we were kinda hoping we could delay taking action until spring but under the advice of a retired nurse decided to have it looked at… no… removed! You know it’s going to be an adventure working with the Mexican healthcare system! The recommended Naval Hospital directed us to another local clinic where a general surgeon would be on duty, or at least would be if we called him at home. ‘Be there in 20 minutes’… the surgeon appeared carrying his cauterizer machine and 10 minutes later Steve was under the knife. From the decision to have it looked at to having it removed… 2 hours, done and dusted, with the specimen in the lab for biopsy and the results a week later. They don’t bother to measure wait times!  All accomplished in the local tongue with barely a word of English, even the biopsy report in Spanish. Benign Haemangioma, no worries!  Surgery… $120, Biopsy… $70.  Time to remove the stiches? Well what do you do if you are sitting having coffee on the beach with a retired nurse and retired dentist after a yoga class? You toddle off to Pumper sprawl on the rear seat and whip the stiches out in our Surgery on Wheels!

OrphanageWe had the chance to get involved at an orphanage with 14 abandoned and neglected kids, one of them found at the local refuse dump! Arriving with bags of food for a lunch and fruit and veggies to last several days.

To see the contentment of this bunch of mites all looking out for each other, well behaved, polite, no tantrums, no fussing at the table, broad smiles and laughter… was a humbling experience.

 

Orphanage3Piling them into Pumper for pictures was a riot and when we lifted the pop top the screams of joy must have been heard for miles. Before we leave we’ll make another visit with some medical supplies, and prints of the pictures… should be a hit.

Orphanage4

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With only a couple more yoga classes, maybe a little more paddle boarding, and perhaps another sail around the bay on our new passion the Hobie Cat, we’ll be bidding this little paradise and our new found friends a farewell… until the next time.

Amor y paz… from a Downward Dog! Ommm!

 

 

Out With The Old… Sadly.

garage signEventful month for Pumper. Engine out, the verdict is in… she dropped a valve seat and required drastic work on one of the cylinder heads. Much angst attempting to source parts in Mexico where Vee Dubs are ubiquitous but type 4 engines rare. Virtually all buses / Kombi’s to be found were produced in Brazil. More on that later. So after a few weeks we decided to repair the existing head and hope like crazy the fix will hold up with the rigours of long distance road trips.

Pumper UndercoatBack with us for just a day… seemed like we should take the plunge and get Pumpers bodywork repaired. A few rust spots, a much scarred front panel from all the stone chips of the last 4 years driving on sketchy roads, and of course the dinged up rear corner from 2 driver inflicted wounds (we each owned one of those) and a couple of parking lot scrapes we take no responsibility for.

Didn’t take long to figure that a complete paint job was sooo crazy inexpensive this had to be the way to go even though we were kissing goodbye to the stickers adorning her! We paid just a tad more for the whole thing than we were quoted in Canada for only repairing the rear corner and painting the front. So in she goes for 2 more weeks. In Mexico nothing goes to waste so can’t say we were completely surprised to see all our stickers on the paint shop owners ATV. They must have been painstakingly removed and applied with adhesive, whatever, all those stickers from our travels are a treasure, pleased to see they’re someone’s pride and joy.

Stickers

With Pumper in the “shop” getting all pretty, we commuted from Ixtapa to Zihuatanejo on the local buses. We have only seen one other gringo couple on the local buses. That tells you something! But for that matter in the last 6 weeks we have only rare sightings of other gringo tourists.. Kinda do feel a little bit like aliens at times! Ixtapa is clearly a wealthy Mexican national tourist destination with convenient  proximity to Mexico City. Don’t let the image of an impoverished México fool you, they have their middle and upper classes just like Canada and the US.

Sojourn days are chocked full of delightful experiences that as always thrill and inspire and cause much reflection on the craziness how things are done in various worlds and society’s!

DSCN0034In Canada the USA or England you might be dashing for a bus and despite the driver seeing you frantic, the bus pulls off full steam with a schedule to adhere to… leaving you in the dust.  Well not here! There is no such thing as a schedule; the drivers earn money dependent upon the number of customers. They literally trawl the curbside for customers, slowing at every driveway in the hope someone is making their way to the bus! The only problem… the speed of the journey is relative to the number of vacant seats. Lots of empty seats… the journey’s a snail’s pace. Full House… the bus moves at the speed of light. There are a few bus stops which are mostly ignored allowing riders to embark or disembark anywhere they choose. How nice is that, door to door service all for the price of 9 pesos (75 cents) per trip.

DSCN0009On occasion you get a traveling Minstrel who, only at the invitation of a driver, will strum away on an olde rickety guitar often missing a string or two, cracks in the body, and generally in rough shape, (as are some of the minstrels) but hey who cares? For a donation of a few pesos you get some delightful entertainment.

On the little 12 seat Zihuatanejo local bus that more often will carry 20 passengers jammed in, everybody greets with a “good morning” now could you imagine that in a big North American city in rush hour traffic… Just imagine! Try it on your next commute, say good morning as you get on the train or bus! Reckon you’ll be given wide berth for being some sort of crackpot!

DSCN0069But it’s hot, sweaty, weary work the drivers work 12 hour days 6 days a week. We were on a bus recently that doubled as daycare for the drivers three little toddlers, cute as buttons they were but hardly able to stay awake. How focused the bus driver was on the road rather than his little ones heads bobbing asleep, precariously perched on their seats. No problem! Pull the bus over and move them to a seat where perhaps they stood less chance of sliding right out the door or going through the windshield if we crashed. Did the passengers mind this little delay? Not at all… they helped with getting the little mites settled. I know where the drivers focus will be in the case of emergency!! But you smile!!

New paintSo Christmas  day / New Years Day.. Yup  buses all running, stores all open there is no such thing as a holiday here.. Life for most is slogging it one day to the next making enough money to feed the family and live another day. But then again there are plenty of Mexican tourists in the resort town of Ixtapa where our apartment is, that make us look like a couple of penniless bums! The side of Mexico the press does not talk about.. Walking on the beach at night… we have no fear here!

At the Centro market we find a bill on the floor…  1000 Mexican pesos!!! Holy… That is like $80, a crap pile of money to people in the market!!!!  How do we find the rightful owner? Had we uttered a word there would have been at least 20 rightful owners at our side in a flash. Maybe give it to a local cop? Cough… yeah sure! Easy decision: we’ll donate it to the orphanage along with money we were planning to contribute to the schooling program to educate the indigenous kids of the area. Hope that all falls into the “good karma” bracket. You don’t see many 1000 bills especially in the market… probably dropped by a drug dealer we tell ourselves to put our minds at ease. …  just hope there isn’t some poor family suffering from that loss but it will make a difference in the lives of some needy children.

Another day soaking up paradise, yoga at the beachfront rooftop studio with a parrot squawking ” Hola” to our downward dogs as the dolphins  frolicked in the bay: how is one ever meant to focus?

Puppy Mill

Our only sadness over the holiday was encountering a Mexican “puppy mill”. The most sickening thing, as much as it is reality, the sight of this abuse was utterly disturbing. We are blessed to have friends who are advocates for animals in both this country and others, striving daily to highlight this plight and bring awareness and education. The suggestion they could use some water did get a response, but little good that will do.Puppy Mill 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Back to the Brazilian Kombi: appropriate to get this blog out today coinciding with the last day of production of the iconic VW Type 2 Kombi, or in North America, Bus. The body is virtually unchanged since the 70’s although the air cooled motor has long since been replaced with a water cooled version. Brazil was the last place of production in the world. Germany discontinued production in 1979. Not too many classico’s here… It is bizarre to see them as everyday vehicles, even a fleet of brightly coloured Kombi taxis in Petatlan 30 minutes out of Zihua.

Guess it is up to fanatics like us to keep the history alive. Pumper’s facelift provides a great chance she will be around for many years to come.

Peace and love… with an icon for the New Year.